This time I wanted to review a bike from a brand that isn’t as well known as the increasingly ubiquitous Cervelo (at least here in Toronto). Enter Fuji, uncommon in the peleton and with little brand image to bring them attention. When I think Trek, for example, I think Lance Armstrong. Not a bad brand image. When I think Cervelo, I think engineering. Nothing wrong with that. When I think Fuji, I think…cameras? Not even the correct company.

Fuji Bikes make a few road models that are worth discovering. The Fuji Team, for example, is a fantastic entry to mid-level road bike that is inexpensive compared to its carbon competition. Moving to the top of Fuji’s product line, the Fuji SL-1 is ridden by Toyota-United on the pro tour. The Fuji SL1 is generally thought of as a climber’s bike; it is a completely carbon and is typically shipped with a compact crank, which gives you even easier gear ratios to spin up the difficult climbs.

A friend of mine, Steve, owns two Fujis. I asked Steve to share some thoughts on his bikes, especially the SL1. Here’s the scoop:

Steve: How old are you?

Steve: I am 34 years old.

How long have you been road riding?

I bought my first bike, a Bianchi Premio, in 1989. Whoa, I’ve been riding for almost 20 years.

You own a couple of Fuji road bikes now and Fuji isn’t a widely ridden bike. How did you come to settle on Fuji as a brand?

I stopped riding regularly while I was studying in university, and got involved with other sports that kept me away from the road. A couple of years ago I decided to get back into cycling, since it’s an excellent, relatively low impact way to get into very good shape. My bike was an old, chromo, 1993 Peugeot Success, with down tube shifters that was very, very heavy compared with the bikes of today. And, since I also was in a far better financial position than my student days, I decided to make a move on a carbon framed bicycle.

I looked around at several local bike shops in midtown Toronto, test riding mid-range offerings from the regular brands – Trek, Cannondale, LeMond, Specialized, Giant – and I also tried out a Fuji Team. All were decent bikes for my $ 2, 000ish price point, but none offered the level of components of the Fuji, or if they did, they lacked a full carbon frame. The Fuji was also the most aggressive feeling of the bikes I tested. The steering was light, the road feedback was direct, and it was most responsive when I put it through its paces. The Fuji Team frame is fairly stiff and responsive, considerably more lively than my supple old Peugeot’s and is also quite striking with a partially painted scheme that shows off its woven carbon skeleton. Fuji also sourced a wide variety of components from several different vendors to build up the bike, which resulted in a very reliable mid-range setup that was quite light relative to its peers. For me, the Fuji was really great value – it was the highest performing, lightest, full-carbon framed bike for the most competitive price.

Despite the fact that I now own two Fujis, I’m not so loyal to the brand that I’m tied to it. The new Fuji SL1 was also an amazing deal that I couldn’t turn up.

How much did you pay for the SL1? Where did you buy it?

Funny story, the purchase of the SL1 is. I got completely ruined on a ride in the fall of 2007, the Hastings Hilly Hundred - don’t be fooled by the alliteration and seemingly harmless name, it was a brutal 240 km slog - and decided to do some retail therapy to ease my pain. I was poking around EBay, looking to upgrade the Fuji Team with a carbon crank, when a friend pointed me toward a Fuji SL1 in my size that was on auction. Until that point I had never even heard of the SL1, but The bike was in pristine condition, and had only been ridden a couple of hundred km. So, for fun I threw in a bid for $ 2, 000 and went to bed. Next thing I knew, it was mine. Get this – the MSRP for the bike is nearly $ 5, 500! For once something that seemed to be too good to be true, wasn’t. I’m not sure I’ll ever buy a bike on EBay again, but this particular transaction worked out very well.

What are the full specs of your Fuji SL1?

The heart and soul of the SL1 is the frame, and boy is it ever light. Fuji boasts that it is 890 grams, including the full carbon fork, making it one of the lightest frames available anywhere today. But the frame doesn’t look like a lightweight; the bottom bracket is very beefy and all the other tubes are also of significant proportion. This frame is a classic case of a wolf in sheep’s clothing. My particular model is the SL1s, which means that the groupo is SRAM’s Force. It also comes with Ritchey’s top of the line WCS series carbon seat post, and carbon stem and bars; and a carbon racing saddle from Selle San Marco. Fully built, including my Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels, Look Keo Ti pedals, this carbon killer comes in at a sliver under 6.9 kilos (15.2 lbs). I mean, have you lifted this thing? It’s light as a feather!

It certainly is light. How would you compare the Fuji SL1 to other road bikes that you’ve ridden?

First and foremost, the SL1 is light and twitchy. The frame was designed to be very stiff and efficient, and also has a compact geometry. This is a bike that is very responsive and I’ve found it pretty easy to settle my weight in the wrong spot and loosen up the back end on hills or even lift the front end on flats when I’m putting a lot of torque to the pedals. Compared to other bikes I have ridden, the ride is definitely more harsh, but with the kind of feedback and responsiveness it provides the rider, I also find it much more exciting.

How about the components? The Fuji Team has Shimano 105/Ultegra groupset while the SL1 has SRAM Force groupset. Was that a difficult transition for you? Which of the component sets do you prefer?

I am becoming accustomed to the SRAM setup on the SL1, and am enjoying it. From a ridability standpoint, the shifts are precise and predictable, and I like the partial up shift setting on the front derailleur which minimises rubbing when the chain is near the top or bottom of the cassette. Although, I find Shimano’s drive trains operate a little more smoothly and are also easier to tinker with.

Is there a defining feature of the Fuji SL1? What do you like most about this bike?

The feature of the build that catches most people’s attention is the amount of carbon on it. Pretty well everything that can be carbon is carbon, and it makes for a bike that really stands out. Most impressive for me though is the SL1 frame. In addition to the ultra-low mass, it also looks understated in a classic black and silver finish, and is very utilitarian in design. Fuji touts that the top tube has a honeycomb internal structure and fully integrates into the seat stays for improved energy transfer, and the frame has minimal paint and artwork so the carbon weave is on full display – which also makes it more environmentally friendly!

What are your strengths as a rider, and did the Fuji SL1 play to your strength or compensate for weakness?

I think I’m a pretty typical amateur cyclist; I have a career that keeps me busy and on the road quite a bit, an active social life, and a lot of other things going on that compete with riding for the number one spot on my list of priorities. So, in short, there’s not really any single element of my cycling that stands out other than my love of riding. My goals for this season - and pretty much the rest of my life as a rider - are to stay healthy and to participate in the Tour for Kids, a phenomenal charity cycling event that raises money for children’s cancer camps here in Ontario. The Fuji SL1 is going to go a long way to help me achieve those goals because it’s a great bike to ride on, even over long distances when set up appropriately (read – without the Selle San Marco saddle) it can flatten any hill in its way, is an absolute rocket on the flats, and is outfitted with top-end, reliable components.

I thought you might tell me you bought this for revenge in the Hastings Hilly Hundred. Ok. Serious question: Lance Armstrong or Matt McConaughey?

Easy one - Matthew McConaughey. One of my favourite movie lines of all-time was delivered by Wooderson, a character he played in Dazed and Confused: “I love them high school girls. I get older, they stay the same age.”

Hilarious. Now how about Obama or Clinton?

Neither. If the Democrats get into the White House in 2008, the President, if he or she is serious about real change, will only be able to hold office for a single term. After six decades of bad foreign policy and an incumbent that is leaving the nation in complete financial shambles, there is so much reform required to get the nation back on track that the winner of the contest is going to have to take a few biggies for the team and for the good of America.

Spoken like a true Canadian. Thanks Steve.

Well, that’s a wrap. Perhaps the next time you’re browsing through the common brands at your local bike shop, you’ll take time to consider the Fuji as well. There is good value in the Fuji Team and great performance in the Fuji SL1.

Obviously road rash isn’t among the worst things that can happen to you during a bike crash, but it is painful nonetheless. Eager to be back on the bike as quickly as possible, I did plenty of research on healing and learned quite a bit along the way. Here are a few things that I learned during the process.

Please note that I am not a doctor. This is simply what I found out through speaking with a doctor and doing some of my own research. You should do the same.

1) Immediately wash the wound(s) with soap and water. You should do this as quickly as possible. I had lots of dirt and asphalt on my wounds when I crashed and this needs to come off immediately.

2) Once the wound has been cleaned, find a liquid / breathable bandage and apply over the wound. There are plenty of good ideas, but the two that I am most familiar with are tegaderm and Johnson & Johnson’s Advanced Healing. I wasn’t able to find Tegaderm at a nearby drug mart, so I went with the Advanced Healing.

3) Once the bandage is on there, leave it for a few days. I had puss come out of the bandage, but I would just wipe it off in the shower. When the bandage completely fills, take it off, wash the wound again with soap and water, then put a new bandage back on.

This approach goes against my traditional “put alcohol/ peroxide on it and let it dry out” approach. The scabbing actually slows the healing process and can also lead to scarring. Using these “liquid” bandages helps to minimize scarring and the bandage itself acts as a scab, preserving moisture so that new skin can grow.

And that’s it. 2 weeks after the crash I have only one scab - from a wound that required two staples to hold together. Every other wound is without scab and is fresh pink skin.

And now that the rider is healing, it is time to shift my focus on getting the bike back in shape.

I dropped my bike off at the shop on the day of the crash last week and yesterday I got the damage assessment: cosmetic damage only. The saddle was badly scraped, but ridable. The shifters have paint and brand engravings rubbed off, but again, functional. Aside from a Fulcrum Zero that needed a slight true and some ripped bar tape, the Trek Madone 5.2 is fully repaired and eager to go. The final damage costs are $200 in new tape and saddle and about $475 lost in clothing, helmet, and shoes.

Overall, I was happy to see the bill. I don’t have to replace any of the clothing because I have lots already. Only $200 gone on what could have been a much more expensive replacement.

The St. Lawrence Criterium is happening on May 30th with racing start times ranging from 5:45pm - 7:45pm. The course runs along Front Street and the Esplanade and will make for a great crit loop. Spectators can watch the race unfold and also have access to the Bike Expo in Bercyz Park. Duke’s, Cervelo, Trek, and others will be there.

There are only spots for 100 riders in the race, so if you’re interested, you’d better sign up fast!

Getting out of Toronto and in to the areas of quality riding can be difficult, especially when groups of people are involved. Carpooling is a great solution, but one car can only carry so many people and bikes. I don’t have a car, for example, and neither do a lot of my friends. Our group started to rely on GO transit more and more last year, figuring we might as well not spend 80k of our total ride just getting to the area that we want to ride in. We’d take the GO out to areas such as Oakville or Whitby and begin the rides there instead.

Another popular out-of-Toronto cycling spot is the Niagara region. Last year, our cycling squad made numerous trips to the Niagara area for rides. There you can find hills around the escarpment, quality roads, plenty of flat terrain, and certainly beautiful scenery. There is no GO transit to Niagara, however, which means the difficult part is getting there. Enter biketrain.ca.

Last year, a pilot program was put on by biketrain.ca and VIA Rail which placed bike racks in one of their train cars. Up to 56 bikes can be transported from Toronto to Niagara in this way. When you buy your train ticket, you also get a spot on the bike rack. Due to it’s inaugural success, this program is back in 2008 with an expanded schedule and new promotions. So the next time you’re looking for a new place to spin, consider that Niagara may not be as difficult to reach as you think.

As soon as I went down I slid on my right side then flipped to the my left, where I continued the slide. The guy behind me was too close to get out of the way and so he hit me. He and his bike went down on top of me, but I completely cushioned his fall.

The total damages of this little mishap are an elbow with 2 staples in it (after sitting at the hospital for 4 hours), lots of road rash (roughly 10% of body covered), tattered bibs/jersey/shoes, damaged shifters, ruined saddle, and perhaps a bad derailleur. My friend’s bike seems fine, and I’d say that my bike is OK overall. I dropped it off on the way to the hospital so that it could begin receiving treatment as well!

So now I’m on the path to a speedy recovery. Today I am extremely stiff. I’ve been given orders to only use soap & water to clean the wounds and polysporin as an ointment. I can remove the staples in 10-14 days, and hopefully by then I’ll be able to get back on the bike.

“If you have ever wanted the chance to test out the Cervélo of your dreams, but weren’t sure where to go for a test ride, we are pleased to introduce éRide. The Cervélo éRide program launches in early April at the Redlands Classic in California. Then it will travel across North America to various Cervélo dealers and cycling events until the end of July. éRide offers the opportunity to experience for yourself what the Cervélo ride is all about. You will be able to choose the Cervélo model of your choice for a test ride from the fleet of models available at each of the éRide locations. You will also benefit from the advice and product knowledge of attending Cervélo staff and local dealers in determining the right model and size for you.

For more information on the éRide dates and locations, visit www.cervelo.com/eRide.”

I was recently given a tour of the Cervelo office here in Toronto (more info to come), and I came away seriously considering a couple of their models. Unfortunately, the eRide program doesn’t currently have Toronto on the schedule, but they could be announcing more stops soon.

Participants can choose a distance of either 25km or 75km, making this attractive to cyclists of all types. If you’ve never done a charity bike ride, there is lots of support by way of ride marshals that ensure you’re having a good time, rest stations with food and drink, and mechanical help in case, say, your tire blows.

The ride is on June 1st. Until May 27th, you can register as an individual for $40. $60 of fund raising is also required, or you can just pay $100 total. If you pay on the day of the event, the price goes up $10. All fund raising proceeds go to the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Ontario.

So sign up now and give it a shot. You’re sure to enjoy it.

We arrived with plenty of time to warm up and also watch fellow teammates finish. After the early races were over, we had about a half hour and then we were lined up and set to go. A few warnings from the organizers, and we were on our way.

The pace immediately jumped up to what I figure was about 40kph (I decided not to ride with my computer). Not bad, the pace was fine. I would immediately find that my biggest problem was riding in the pack. I have plenty of group riding experience, but not in race conditions, where people are slamming the brakes for no reason and aggressively trying to take your spot in the group. Although I knew it was a bad strategy, I let myself slip towards the back of group, and once there, figured I would rejoin my teammates on the first hill of the race.

About 5km in, we encountered our first hill, the smallest of the group. As the pack began the climb, I got out of the saddle and was ready to jump ahead to regain my spot. Suddenly, a crash in front of me takes down about 10 riders and, due to yellow line rules (which I should have ignored), I had to clip out of my pedals and walk through the mess.

5km in and I’m off the pack. Very bad situation. I immediately powered up the hill and turned on the speed to try and catch the pack. A few other riders jumped on my wheel to get back, but nobody would work with me to bridge the gap. As I finally started to bridge, the group went up the first real climb of the day, and I was tiring fast. I tried to catch on the climb, but quickly found out that wasn’t going to happen. By the time I had reached the top the gap was wider than ever, and I knew the race was over for me.

So, my first lesson is not to get caught at the back of the group. This is almost always where the crashes occur. It had been said to me many times before, but it was something that I had to experience to understand.

This weekend I have my second race in Calabogie. Hopefully I can build on last week’s ride to at least finish with the pack.

Being properly fit on your bike might be the most important thing in riding. First, you want to be comfortable on a bike that you spend hours on at a time. Second, you don’t want to open yourself up to injury (knees especially) due to poor positioning, and finally, if you pay hundreds or thousands of dollars for a bike, why wouldn’t you spend a little money to make sure that you are in the best possible position?

We found out about IMfit.ca from some friends and everything that we heard was positive. So after a few email exchanges to arrange a date/time, we were on our way to Acton.

When I arrived at Ian’s house, I was surprised to see such a professional shop. My initial impression was that I was not sacrificing a thing by coming to somebody’s house to get a fitting; actually, I would end up getting a personal one-on-one fitting while still having access to all of the technology used in today’s fits. Having access to information such as wattage and left/right leg comparisons during a fit is reassuring, and I don’t believe I could do another fit without it.

Once I got on the trainer, I was immediately reading the output to decipher any faults in my technique. Fortunately, I couldn’t read what the screen was telling me, and Ian would not offer any hints until later. He began tinkering with my saddle, incrementally inching it forward and upward until he was pleased with the increase in extension, power, and efficiency. When I was all dialed in with the new position, he began to focus on other areas such as posture and fluidity in the pedal stroke, both areas that I need to concentrate on.

All in all, I’d say that the change is dramatic: 3cm increase in saddle height and a 2-3cm saddle shift forward. The fitting took less than an hour, and now the only piece that’s left is for me to go out and ride with the new setup.

So if you’ve been thinking of getting a bike fit, IMFit.ca might be a good place to consider. IMFit.ca combines a unique one-on-one atmosphere with a feeling that you’re getting a bargain for what you’re paying for. And once you have the confidence that you’re properly configured on your machine, you can go out and ride that much harder!