I can’t believe I’ve been back for almost a week and haven’t provided a report on my trip. Apologies! I’ve been buried in work and email since I returned, and have been extremely busy catching up. Thank you for your patience.
I’ve finally snagged a few minutes to sit down and write, so here goes: without further adieu, the complete Whistler vacation report!
(I’m not planning to write this in any particular order, so I apologize in advance in case it emerges as a scattered article.)
The weather
I’ll start by talking about the conditions. When I landed in Vancouver on Sunday (the 14th), I was shocked to see snow on the ground; snow very rarely sticks to the ground in Vancouver (I have a cousin who has a palm tree in his backyard). I figured if there was snow in Vancouver, it must be a hell of a scene in Whistler – and I was right. The news reports don’t lie; Whistler is absolutely buried in snow. Every snowbank I passed was taller than me. Every time.
Over the next week, it would generally snow 5 to 10 centimetres a night, meaning there was plenty of fresh snow to go around. The first day on Whistler Mountain was clear and snow-free, but it snowed 15 or 20 centimetres on our second night… turning day two of riding into a sweet powder day (the guy scanning our lift tickets seemed genuinely sad as he scanned our tickets and sighed, “Enjoy the pow”). We hit Blackcomb Mountain that day, and were not disappointed; although we had to do quite a bit of digging every time we made a bad decision (flat spots are tough to notice in deep powder) we had an amazing day. We hit glaciers, glades and everything in between before heading down to the Longhorn for some sweet après beers.
But I digress. Let’s try to keep it to themes.
My first backcountry experience… sort of
On day three of riding, my cousin, a ski instructor, had an idea. “What if,” he said, pointing to a huge, untouched bowl, “we hiked up there?”
I looked over to the bowl, known to locals as the Flute Bowl, and thought about it for a second. The pitch looked okay. Other folks were hiking up the bowl. And because it was technically inbounds, I knew it had been blasted as part of the mountain’s avalanche control policy.
“What the hell,” I said. “Let’s do it.”
As we passed a sign welcoming us to the Whistler backcountry (and telling us we faced a 15-30 minute hike), I suddenly realized something: all those folks you see wearing backbacks on the hills use them to carry snowboards up the hill. Smart. But it also made me wonder: why the hell do people in Ontario wear them?
Anyway, about 25 minutes later we hit the top of the bowl and dropped in. The subsequent ride, which was about 10 minutes, was definitely worth the effort. There’s something about carving your own lines in a bowl with no-one around that’s difficult to describe. It was phenomenal. I’m sure the backcountry guys and gals that read this site can identify with this. But I also learned a valuable lesson: try to make your ride count! If I realized I had to hike in AND out, I would have tried to explore the bowl by riding sideways a bit more, instead of heading straight down.
The Symphony Express
If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you know I haven’t shut up about Whistler’s new lift in quite some time. The new Symphony Express serves the Symphony Amphitheatre (a giant bowl), blue-level glades with tons of snow, and also includes a wide-open groomed run that cuts right through the middle of the area. This new area is PHENOMENAL. There’s tons of space to explore, the high-speed lift gets you back up top quickly, and it’s generally free of beginners. The only downside to the new area is getting out; a long cat road has to be traversed, and that’s a nightmare for snowboarders. However, that didn’t stop us from spending a couple of days in the Symphony area.
(For those who plan to visit Whistler, a tip: the Symphony lift closes at 2pm mid-season. Get a last upload at 2, and ride over to Harmony, which closes at 2:30. Then ride down to Emerald Express, which closes at 3, or Garbanzo Express, which doesn’t close until 3:15. By staying in those areas, you can stay on the mountain as late as possible.)
The sleep
When you snowboard every day from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm, you end up going to bed fairly early. I don’t think I stayed up later than 11:00 pm during the entire trip.
I am a loser.
The knee
Believe it or not, I rode six days straight with a torn ACL. Most everyone in our group rode at least five days, one rode five and a half; I did six. It was funny – as the days progressed, I felt better and better. By day six, my body seemed so used to the workout that none of my muscles felt tight or sore at all. But when I got home two days later, my knee and ankle (the one I managed to hurt last year on Seventh Heaven after rolling head-over-heels down a hill on Blackcomb) were saying, “Dude. Stop.” A week later, however, I feel one hundred percent again.
The lessons
I think I learned several random things on this trip:
• You can do booters and kickers with a torn ACL.
• Snowboarding is all about confidence. Once you gain a certainl level of skill and control, the only thing that stops you from blasting down hills without turning is believing you won’t fall.
• There is something uniquely Canadian about sitting outside in a hot tub with a toque and beer in the middle of January.
• A-Line and B-Line, popular mountain biking trails on Whistler Mountain, are damn impossible to find on a snowboard without the help of a local.
• A 156 centimetre snowboard is not suitable for deep powder.
• The Perimeter charter bus from the airport now seems to be like it would be much less of a hassle than taking a cab and then catching a Greyhound bus to Whistler.
• When a Greyhound ticket clerk accuses you of losing the ticket he never gave you, the truth will persevere.
• Most bars and restaurants in town aren’t the best at customer service. The whole town is run by 18 to 22 year old kids looking to travel and ride, and it shows.
• The best route to get around Whistler mountain on a busy day is Creekside Gondola > Expressway > Garbanzo Express.
• Whistler and Blackcomb mountains are never the same two days in a row.
All in, an amazing trip with great friends. I’m sure the experience will provide plenty of fodder for future articles; I also plan to update the Unofficial Whistler Guide as soon as possible.
NIce post. Thanks for the tips. Can’t wait to use ‘em …
JB
Thanks for the post! Going to have to read up on this again in mid-March (especially the order of the lifts you took).
Now you got me worrying about the 155cm board I ride… wonder if it’s worth it for me to get a dedicated powder board.
I’m glad you asked. I don’t think so. Here’s a trick my other cousin shared with me (he’s the bad one in the family — he snowboards instead of skis. *grin* But he’s got 10 years of Whistler experience):
If you DO give that a shot, let me know. Dorp me a line before you go if you have any questions!
Take the binding of your FRONT foot and move it as close to the BACK foot as possible, creating a bigger nose. I didn’t try it, but it makes sense to me: you move the front foot back, and it’s easier to pop the nose up for those sweet powder face shots.
–adam
Hey - this was really informative! Thanks. My friends and I are thinking about doing a trip out to Whistler the third week in April ‘07. Do you think the snow will still be decent then or do you think we should just wait til next season?
-Val
Hey Val,
April can be dicey, but I know someone who experienced an epic powder day in April last year. In fact, it snows more than a metre every April:
One more thing: the Telus Ski and Snowboard Festival is at the end of April, and all of Whistler turns into an even bigger party during this time from what I understand. So lots of fun and celebrities.. but also crowded slopes, if I recall. Check it out:
Thanks for the compliments and the question.
http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/stats/index.htm
Now, that said, you’re probably looking at spring conditions: soft snow, potential for rocks, but probably a mountain that’s mostly open (if not entirely open). I would go if it was a second trip, but if I could only take one trip out a year.. I would go in the dead of winter.
http://www.whistler2006.com/
Hope this helps.
–adam
Just reread everything and dropped most of your notes into a text file I’ll be taking with me. If you have any additional tips please let me know!
I ended up picking up a 157 Salomon Burner to dedicate to the POW. I figured I spent so much money on the trip, dropping $250 for a $530 powder board doesn’t seem too bad. Even so I think I’ll set back the bindings as you suggested, still a little short for my weight.
haven’t tried it myself but my cousin, who’s lived in Whistler all his life, swears by it. have fun on your trip!
–adam
[...] The Unofficial Guide to Whistler [...]
I’m going to be back to read this again… headed to Whistler on Jan. 2-6, 2008. Any new tips to add since it’s been nearly a year that you wrote this first post?
Hey Erica, definitely check out the Whistler Guide, which I updated once again this fall:
http://www.highlyobsessed.com/2006/12/02/an-unofficial-guide-to-whistler/
Have fun! Jan. 2 is a good time to go, my expectation is it won’t be very busy.
–adam
[...] but I suck on boxes and rails. The second is backcountry experience. I hiked Whistler’s Flute Bowl once, but even that is totally inbounds. I’ve never been backcountry riding, and I think even [...]
[...] the mountain so I don’t do just one run, and so I don’t spend half the day walking (hiking Flute Bowl was fun, but I don’t want to do it again). The solution? Heli-skiing or [...]